Where there’s smoke, there’s straight fire at Big Papi's Cocina.
Where there’s smoke, there’s straight fire at Big Papi's Cocina.
If the burgeoning collection of recent arrivals is anything to go by, Cooly is certainly not about to Chile out on the eats front anytime soon (not unlike our penchant for terrible puns, tbh). If you’re partial to the mouth fiesta that is Latin American-style eats, we suggest you make a beeline to Big Papi’s Cocina, pronto.
While we can only dream of spending all our days gallivanting about the Americas – Cooly’s new honcho of all things smokey, cheesy, charred and comfortingly spiced means, our tastebuds can (and should). And if you ask us, an empanada in one hand and a Paloma in other is about as close as one can get to living out said Latin American dreams.
Griffith Street’s latest gem is all about contemporary yet casual street food style eats, all wrapped up in that special combination of rustic coziness that manages to wow while feeling like a warm hug. The latest for award-winning Latin American Chef Kevin Fredes, the new Big Papi on Cooly’s block is legit as they come. Borrowing influences from Mexico and the Caribbean, to Brazil, Argentina and everywhere in between, the menu is a melting pot of bonafide deliciousness. Infused with aromatic coal-cooked morsels, smokey chorizo, crisp potato and melty cheeses for days… basically, the kinds of flavours that have us turning into a pack of Piranhas at the very thought.
Cutting his teeth in culinary teams throughout Europe, Big Papi’s Cocina is the second solo venture for hatted chef Kevin Fredes. His first, Brisbane’s former Paella Y Pa’Mi, earning him an AGFA nod back in 2022. Though some sweet industry accolades aren’t Kevin’s only claim to fame – spending many of his Sydney years training as apprentice to celebrity chef Miguel Maestre.
For Kevin and co-owners Corrine Klein and Carrie Edgar, the vision for Cooly’s new addition was to showcase ‘new world wines, contemporary Latin street food and glass ceiling dining’. The latter literally referring to a greenhouse-vibing ceiling framed by translucent panels – talk about a roof with a view! Boasting a separate back dining room with outdoor and bar seating, by night the light-filled interior takes on a whole new persona, flanked by festoon lights and twinkling stars overhead. The result is a cosy ambience as irresistible as one of the signature dishes… or drinks, for that matter. We’re comin’ for you, Maracuya Sour.
The drinks list alone is the kind we would go way (way) out of our way for. In addition to the rather wordly and robust wine list, is a compact yet swoon-worthy selection of signature cocktails. Each qualifying for must-try status, options like the peach-fused Culona Sour and Papi’s Paloma pose quite the conundrum for our far-from 20’s selves. Then there’s the gin, cranberry, lime, grapefruit and lychee liqueur based Rosita, which sounds just like our kind of señora.
Though before you get too sip-happy, there’s also some impossible decisions required on the eats front. The share-style offerings, for starters, are what foodie dreams are made of. Snack, or go full blown feast upon plates of papaya-infused Ceviche, aged cheese and butter-basted Corn over coals and don’t even get us started on the Papi’s Provoleta. Made with gooey Provolone cheese, topped with chilli and honey and served in cast iron pans. Me gusta!
If you’re in the mood for more, the ‘Platos Grandes’ (aka big plates – not quite as fun to say though!) are equally as enticing. Pick between the Papi’s take on a classic, potato and chorizo studded Spanish omelette, or if you want wow-factor, go the Picanha aka ‘Queen of Steaks’ – a chimichurri topped, marbled Rump Cap. So much yes.
Holy. Cow. This one is el bueno.
Where: Shop 1, 140 Griffith St, Coolangatta
When: Monday, Thursday – Sunday 5pm–late
Words by Kellie Leader
Images by Mathilde Bouby